Collection: Part 1

Research

LAYOUT RESEARCH - MAGAZINE

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JUNGLE MAGAZINE

I researched Jungle Magazine as part of my secondary research, I am particularly interested in the layout of this fashion journal. The magazine is released 3 times a year, and attracts an older and more high end audience. When I went through the magazine I noticed the large amounts of white space used, on some pages only a small photo or sentence is placed there. However, this is what draw me in, and almost made viewing the magazine more interesting/different. The white space was used effectively, and therefore I chose to use small amounts of this in both my digital and non-digital layout design. 

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LAYOUT RESEARCH - ARTICLE

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It's Nice That - “Everything has changed” article

This article looks at how the fashion, culture and art magazine - Dazed and Confused, went through a huge redesign. In the true spirit of the magazine, they decided to rip it up and start all over again.

“Everything has changed, we didn’t keep anything from the previous incarnation,” Jamie says, explaining that the bold new direction was the result of a whole new Dazed team comprising editor-in-chief Isabella Burley and creative director Robbie Spencer. With the new team naturally came a new editorial direction, which focused on using the printed version of Dazed as a very separate entity to its digital counterpart. “We try to elaborate more in the stories in the magazine,” Jamie explains. “Because Dazed has such a strong digital platform the structure of the mag had to change.”

As part of my research I wanted to look into fashion journals and magazines, as these sources are where I find inspiration for layout and content. Magazines like Dazed, ID & LOVE, all have a similar yet contemporary style to both their features and design. I looked at current issues as a form of secondary research to help me with the non-digital and digital layout tasks. 

PAGE LINK: https://www.itsnicethat.com/features/dazed-magazine-redesign-jamie-reid

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ANDREAS GURSKY - photographer

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LAYOUT RESEARCH

  • produces large scale, colour photographs - looks into the effects of capitalism and globalisation on contemporary life. 
  • Gursky's work has focused on tourism and commerce - draws attention to todays burgeoning high tech industry and global market. 
  • This piece of research links to the layout/grid project - photos are of natural grids that are found in industrial and architectural buildings. 
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PRINT MAKING - techniques

Relief -  basic printing technique. The process involves printing from a raised surface where the non-image areas have been cut away. Wood is commonly used for relief printing. 

Wood cut - the oldest and simplest forms of printmaking. A variety of tools (both handheld & power tools) can be used to cut the image into a block of wood. Paper is placed over the inked block and rubbed by hand or passed through a press to transfer the ink from block to paper to create the image. This is a cheap and easy way to make a print, which is why it has been so popular for so long. 

Linocut - linoblock consists of a layer of linoleum, usually mounted on a block of wood. This soft material is easily carved using knives and gouges. This is a newer technique, and the linocut process produces a more intricate and detailed print.

Engraving - a handheld steel tool, called a burin, is used to engrave into a piece of metal or wood. Great skill is required to manipulate the burin as it is pushed at different angles and degrees of pressure to produce a characteristic thin to thick line.

Etching - a sharp needle is used to scratch the image through the ground, exposing the metal. The plate is then immersed in an acid bath where the drawn marks are etched. The characteristics of the marks produced depend on the tool used to draw the image, the type of ground coating the plate and the length of time the plate is etched in the acid bath. Etching is seen as a complex and skilled print making technique. 

Screenprint - a stencil is adhered to a material and stretched tightly over a frame. The image areas are open fabric through which ink or paint is forced with a squeegee. Screenprints can be made onto almost any material, and produces an effective outcome. 

 

 

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PRINTMAKING RESEARCH

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COLIN MOORE

Printmaker & painter - his work looks into landscapes and architecture, which represents where he grow up and spend most of his time. I was particularly interested in his coloured prints, and how he used foreground and background effectively and distinctively. 

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PRINTMAKING BRIEF - 29/09/17

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SECONDARY RESEARCH - MOVING IMAGE

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MEET 4 LONDON STYLE TRIBES - Dazeddigital

  • This short fashion film has been shot in a documentary style. It includes casual  interviews, where the interviewees express their personal style and what factors in their life influences the way they choose to dress. The whole concept and style is very similar to the way we have decided to produce our piece of moving image. 
  • Each person has been filmed and interviewed in their natural environment, which portrays a more personal and relatable aspect to the film. Using this technique, attracts a very specific target audience which is something we wanted to make clear in our fashion film. 
  • We made the decision to make the interviews very personal as it will attract our audience and make the piece more engaging. 
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Secondary research - moving image

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PETRA COLLINS - PHOTOGRAPHY

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Petra Collins - secondary research

Petra Collins is a artist/curator, from New York. She has influenced our work on a personal level during the project, especially when we were given the fashion communication brief on the first day. Collins photography has a distinctive retro style look to it. Her recent work is very dreamy which connotes a sense of innocence, and shows that style is a key feature to her creative process – which we thought related to our idea as our moving image piece is based on a person's individual style.

It is clear that Collins focuses on composition and the framing of her image/footage, we have found this too be very effective as it allows the viewer to appreciate the artistic direction even more. 

She captures raw, natural shots which therefore pair really nicely with the innocent visuals. Her work also gives off a 70s/80s vibe, due to the aesthetics and styling of the photographs, which I feel is a very well thought out process.

Petra Collins has also produced short films and moving image pieces, e.g. Selena Gomez's 'Fetish' music video, 'A Hungarian Dream' for Gucci eyewear and Carly Rae Jepsen's 'Boy Problems' music video. We were able to link these moving images pieces quite easily to our final fashion film as we were inspired by the techniques used. 

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SECONDARY RESEARCH - MOVING IMAGE

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WILLOW SMITH: Girl Almighty - a film by Ben Toms

  • Post production techniques are used elegantly and creatively, which influenced our choice of editing. We wanted to include techniques like layering, collaging & the use of mixed media when editing our fashion film. Each shot flows together which incorporates the music and moving image nicely. 
  • Deliberate choice of the grainy & vintage style - links with Willow Smith’s childhood and gives a nostalgic feel to the piece of moving image.

 

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Secondary research - moving image

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'POETIC CARDBOARD' BRIEF fashion communication 25/09/17

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WALLACE NEFF - architect

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FINAL DESIGN - secondary research

As a group we were majorly influenced by the architect, Wallace Neff, who designed a building in Berlin in 2012. The colour combination and the aesthetically pleasing style inspired us to use a similar colour palette for the buildings in our 'utopian' world. However, we did not choose to use the same striped theme as that did not have any significance. The eye catching colours link with positivity and the pursuit of something 'perfect', which is what our final product reflects. 

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'TYPE' BRIEF 21/09/17

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FINAL DESIGN - secondary research

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INFLUENCES

To get the architectural design inside the globe, we first researched pop art artists, designers and architects. This gave us inspiration into the interior design and style we wanted. We designed the buildings to have a vibrant colour theme, that was influenced by Andy Warhol's art work and the coloured houses around London (e.g Notting Hill). 

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PRIMARY RESEARCH - photos

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PRIMARY RESEARCH

UTOPIANISM 

‘the belief in or pursuit of a state in which everything is perfect, typically regarded as unrealistic or idealistic’

  • aspirational 
  • unrealistic 
  • dreams 
  • societal expectations 
  • enclosed, physically unreachable 
  • westernisation 

SQUEEZE

‘firmly press (something soft or yielding), typically with one's fingers’

‘manage to get into or through a narrow or restricted space’

  • sound - high pitch 
  • fitting - clothing 
  • sponge 
  • affection - hugs/emotions 
  • claustrophobia
  • space 
  • education 

SILK 

'Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles' 

  • glamour 
  • royalty/money 
  • nature (silk worms)
  • high fashion 
  • labour
  • time consuming  
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IDEAS FACTORY BRIEF 11/09/17

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INSTAGRAM LAYOUT GRID

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LAYOUT RESEARCH

  • photo sharing social media site 
  • photos are shown and shared in a regular square format
  • displayed in this style and format to show photos in a consistent and regular way
  • creates an attractive and visual feed that attracts a specific audience
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LAYOUT PROJECT BREIF - 09/10/17

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UMBERTO GIOVANNINI

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PRINT MAKING

Umberto Giovannini is a graphic artist and printmaker. His work incorporates colour and woodcuts, which he has been developing for around 20 years. Giovannini has a strong passion for performing arts which is noticeable throughout his print making work. 

  • His use of mark making on the wood is effective and precise - made me really think about which parts of my final print I wanted the cut and carve. 
  • This piece of work was a good example to use for showing which marks print solid colour and which leave white space. 
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POLITICAL FASHION CAMPAIGN

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Chanel S/S 15

Karl Lagerfeld sent the fashion world into a tailspin when he staged a feminist protest march for Chanel’s SS15 show. Megaphone in hand, Cara Delevingne led an army of rioting models down the Boulevard Chanel, chanting words of empowerment and brandishing signs like “Feminist but feminine” and “Ladies First,” in one of the most overtly political fashion shows of all time. 

I wanted to use this campaign for secondary research as it looks into a strong political issue within the fashion industry. Even though it doesn't have huge amounts of significance regarding our project, the issues behind it and the links to fashion do. When I was researching this campaign it influenced and inspired me to really portray the message in my short moving image in an effective and meaningful way that will draw in my target audience.

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SECONDARY RESEARCH - MOVING IMAGE

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THE ROLLING STONES 'Ride Em On Down' - music video

We decided to base our final piece on stereotypes and how gender, race, sexuality etc are all fixed with a certain 'image' in society. If they change that 'image' and it doesn't correspond with what is expected or if its not seen as the 'norm',  it can spark discussion and sometimes disagreement. 

With this in mind we based our moving image piece on style and self expression, and how everyone has a unique flare that represents them in a very personal way. When looking around and investigating our surroundings, we discovered that most of our peers have an eccentric style that contrasts with the typical male/female look that has been pinned to us for many years.

With this idea of fixed appearances etc, I came across The Rolling Stones 'Ride 'Em On Down' music video which stars Kristen Stewart. She appears to have a reckless, boisterous character in the video juxtaposing the girly, polite image which is expected from females. This expresses the idea that we should not have to conform to one specific image that society has created.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEuV82GqQnE

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Secondary research - moving image

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SECONDARY RESEARCH - print/article

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'Afropunk- goers on style, self expression and black excellence' - DAZEDDIGITAL

" I was kind of hesitant to wear this because my stomach isn’t rock hard anymore like it has been the majority of my life and I’ve been a bit insecure about it – but I wanted to accept myself fully in this womanly body and say fuck it, so that’s what I did. Life’s too short to give a fuck about everything that doesn’t meet our expectations." 

"I reflect what I’m wearing off of my mood that day. If I’m feeling edgy I’ll be in all black. If I’m feeling creative it’ll show in how I mix texture, patterns or match colours and so on."

Both quotes were found from the article by a festival attendee called Ningha Jones.

"Every day we have to hold ourselves back a little, just so we can fit into society and won’t be judged or cast out." 

"..we must embrace ourselves no matter what and accept our greatness that was disguised to be a downfall.”

Both quotes from festival goer Charles Wright.

Photos found on Dazed and Confused from the Afropunk article. Captured by Hugo Scott in Afropunk New York 2017.

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/37285/1/afropunk-2017-new-york-guests-portraits-fashion-self-expression-black-excellence

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Dazeddigital article

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IT'S NICE THAT - blog

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INTRODUCTION INTO TYPOGRAPHY

I used an article from the 'It's Nice That' website called, 'M/M (Paris) and the ongoing conversations that define its practice', to start looking into different letter forms. This exposed me to the reasons behind why different letter forms are used and the affects these have on there target audience. 

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It's Nice That - article

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3D TYPE BOOK

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SECONDARY RESEARCH - TYPE

Before I started designing my letterform I wanted to reference this book, as it showcases hundreds of three-dimensional letterforms. The books looks back over time at typography and how it has developed, as well as focusing on recent and brand new typographic projects. 3D type specialist Andrew Byrom explains the context and motivation behind these innovative works in an insightful foreword. This inspired me at the start of the 'type' project to really try out as many designs as possible, which led me to see what designs worked and what designs didn't.

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UTOPIANISM - secondary research

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IDEAL CITIES

This book is richly illustrated which quickly brought in ideas and concepts instantly, which helped me gain more of an understanding into Utopianism. It looks into the history of utopianism and how it stimulated reflection and change. It went into detail about how Western societies thrived off development and wanting a 'perfect city'. This booked was very relevant to our final project which helped us develop it further, while also bringing in different perspectives. 

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UTOPIANISM - The Simpsons Movie

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The Simpsons Movie

I used The Simpsons Movie as a piece of secondary research as it links clearly to our final idea. They both have the similarity of a world inside a dome/globe, and also the idea of being separated from another world. Our final piece sculpture shows a 'dreamy' utopian city, however we emphasised the idea that this world is separated from reality. This therefore demonstrated the influences we gained from the movie. 

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SILK - structure

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POP ART - Andy Warhol

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SILK - secondary research

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SILK

In the library session our group found books about silk (the information included the different types, the properties of the material and what it is commonly used for). This helped us understand the material and how we could use it for our final idea. After researching in detail we decided to look at the scientific side of silk, whereby we found out the molecular structure, and used the structural pattern on the base of our design. 

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